June 8: Galilee to Tel Aviv

Today we covered a lot of ground: Rosh Pina, Safed, Rosh Hanikra, Akko, Haifa, Tel Aviv. 

We accidentally spent too long in Safed. We meant to skip Akko, but stopped for lunch and were glad we did. But then we were too late to stop in Caesaria as we drove down the coast. 

Josh started the day with a splash at our wonderful cottage in Rosh Pina. 

Josh is not one to waste a private pool. 

Josh in mid-air

We paid for our cottage, then walked around the tiny old part of Rosh Pina. 

The small section that is old Rosh Pina has beautiful stone buildings, with the usual Israeli bright flowers that are familiar from San Francisco. This home has a potato tree (purple flowers) intertwined with pink bougainvilea. 

The night before, I had walked all the way up to the top of the hill, to something called Nimrod Lookout. It was beautiful, and moving, so the next morning I took the family. It is a memorial to a young man named Nimrod, who died at the age of 29 in 2006, in the second Lebanon war, when he was called up for reserve duty with his tank unit. 

There is a machine that has buttons for English or Hebrew. It tells the story of Nimrod and a bit about Rosh Pina and the Galilee. 

This stone has a picture of young Nimrod. 

Part of the recording is a quote from his older brother. It's very sad, a real reminder of the cost of living in this tiny embattled land. 

That 2nd Lebanon war was a bit of a debacle for the Israelis. Some say the military did well, but were hobbled by politicians who were not clear on the mission. Sounds familiar. 

We drove up from Rosh Pina to Safed. 

I had hoped for a quick stop, to pop into some artist galleries. But we didn't see many that were open. 

I liked the signs for the Khan of the White Donkey. 

A lot...

... and here is the white donkey drinking a coffee

across the alley is a lovely little place, with art, produce of the Galilee, and a performance space tucked back under the old stone arches. My picture in there was too dark, but it's worth a look. 

We were largely thwarted in our efforts to find open galleries, or an ATM that would give us cash (Bank Leumi won't take my card), and received substandard fruit smoothies, and purchased fresh cherries that were a bit sour and bit tasteless. So... Safed didn't work out so great. 

This is me and Sam, near the top of the hill in Safed, almost back to the car. I'd like to give Safed another try sometime -- I suspect it could be satisfying. 

After Safed, we drove west to Rosh Hanikra. We took the northernmost route, which meant that we were frequently near the Lebanese border. The view from the top, at Rosh HaNikra, is all about different colors of blue in the water. 

That dark part is a cave. 

descending in the cable car at Rosh HaNikra

the cable cars and the whole place felt just like  I remembered from 1970. Still pretty and interesting. 

The descent is short and steep. 

grotto in Rosh HaNikra

The border with Lebanon is right there - there is a little army post, an Israeli navy ship permanently patrols there, and we could see buoys marching off in the water to mark the boundariey. 

This sign tells the history of the railroad tunnels that run through the cliffs here. 

The tunnel was built in 1941 by the British, after the fall of the Vichy Government in France, who had control of Lebanon. 

In the war of independence, the Hagana blew up the tunnel to prevent the Arabs from reinforcing their troops in Haifa with supplies and troops from Lebanon. 

By then the boys were hungry, so we stopped in Akko for lunch. We wandered around the old city. The famous Hummus Said was closed, so we went into a nearby shwarma place, and it was delicious. The meat was nicely seasoned, and the salads were interesting and spicy. 

Mosque near the marina in Akko

Ted and the boys are getting fresh-squeezed juice. 

sign in the Old City of Akko

Garden of the Movement of Democratic Women in Acre

walking along the seaside wall in Akko

Then we continued south to Haifa, to get a look at the Bahia temple and gardens. 

We got there after 5 -- to late to go inside. It looks so beautiful in that garden, that I plan to come back and explore it next time. 

All we did in Haifa was drive to this overlook, and it was still worth it. Really beautiful, with a wonderful breeze. 

Then we drove down route 2 along the coast, enjoying the view of the Mediterranean. 

Coming back to Tel Aviv felt like coming home. 

Since we can't return the car till Sunday, we took advantage of it to drive to The Tachana. It's where the old railroad station used to be, for taking the train from Jaffa to Damascus. For a long time it was abandoned. But then they spruced it up, rather like the Ferry Building in San Francisco, and now it is a wonderful plaza with shops and restaurants. 

Josh and Sam lying on the tile pavement

at the Tachana. 

We ate a wonderful Italian restaurant. In Hebrew, it's called Italkia BaTachana. The card in English calls it Italiana nella Stazione. I highly recommend it. Everyone's food was delicious. 

Then we drove to our favorite juice stand, at the corner of Rothschild and Hertsel, and all got our favorite juices. And by then it was nearly midnight.